Green Stuff Considered
- Coolants and Corrosion -
I have collected a bit of book learning about coolants and corrosion in
automobiles. The following information is not based on extensive personal
experience - it's based primarily on an ASTM symposium titled "Engine
Coolant Testing". I have organized the information into a few
sections: Corrosion, Metals,
Coolants and Common
Questions.
"My Triumph will only leave me when it's rust!"
or
-Corrosion-
There are two different modes through which corrosion can cause a
cooling system failure. The first is the oxidation and removal of enough
metal to cause a mechanical failure. This leads to leaks or other flow
problems. The second is extensive scale formation which blocks coolant
pathways. This leads to reduced flow rates and poor heat transfer.
The first mode of failure occurs most frequently in radiators and in
water pumps. In radiators perforation is not as common as the heavy
corrosion that causes it, because the corrosion by-products often plug the
hole they create. In water pumps heavy corrosion causes reduced coolant
flow rates, leakage around the housing and can, in truly extreme cases,
lead to fracture of the pump.
The second mode of failure commonly occurs when a metal salt dissolves
in the hot portion of the system and precipitates in the cold part of the
system, usually the radiator. Alternatively, some metals in the radiator
may form a heavy, insoluble scale as they corrode leading to blocked
tubes.
Another important consideration in understanding corrosion in internal
combustion engines is heat flow. Metal that is heat-rejecting has a higher
corrosion rate than metal that is heat-absorbing or heat-neutral.
Heat-rejection is the transfer of heat from metal to coolant, i.e., in the
engine block is heat-rejecting. One reason for this accelerated corrosion
is coolant boiling at the surface of such surfaces. To quote a favorite
phrase of engineers, physicists and biologists, combined boiling, heat
transfer and corrosion are "not completely understood", but
bench tests clearly show increased corrosion at heat-rejecting metal
surfaces.
"Metallurgy 101: Blacksmithing for Beginners"
or
-Metals-
There are a number of metals present in automotive cooling systems. The
most common metals are cast iron, mild steel, copper, brass, aluminum,
high-lead and low-lead solder alloys. Generally speaking, the corrosion of
metals is prevented by the formation of a stable film at their surfaces.
This film might be formed by corrosion products, as when aluminum is
exposed to air, or by the adsorption of some other chemical, such as
silicates, onto the surface.
The corrosion potential for metals is the result of several competing
factors. The most important two are the electrode potential, a measure of
the tendency of a metal to oxidize, and the protective strength and
stability of the surface films. Relatively speaking, the most corrosion
prone metals in an engine are aluminum and solder.
- Unlike their behavior in ornamental fences or inner wheel arches,
cast iron and steel both have relatively low corrosion rates in
automobile engines. The simple, but essential, task of reducing ferrous
metal corrosion is accomplished by adding inhibitors to the coolant
formulation. Additionally, the corrosion products of ferrous metals are
readily dissolved in the coolant and moderately stable in solution.
Ferrous metals corrosion is not a major problem in the engine of most
cars.
- Copper and brass, an alloy of copper and zinc, have higher corrosion
rates then iron and steel. For the record, the TR7 has a soldered brass
and copper radiator, and I suspect that every Triumph does. The
alternative to the brass and copper radiator that is an aluminum and
plastic radiator developed in the late 70's and early 80's and more
common on newer cars. Like ferrous metals, the corrosion of brass and
copper can be easily controlled through the use of inhibitors.
- Next we come to aluminum, which is near and dear to the hearts of TR7
and TR8 owners. The corrosion of aluminum can be quite a problem. Based
on its electrode potential, aluminum is the most corrosion prone metal
in an engine. Only magnesium, sodium and potassium have a greater
oxidation potential. The reason our precious engines do not turn into
lumps of white powder is that aluminum oxides tend to form stable
surface films. However aluminum is particularly sensitive to a process,
called erosion-corrosion where a rapidly flowing fluid can remove the
protective oxide layer. Erosion can be controlled by limiting the
surface flow rate of coolant to 3 m/s or less. This is easily achieved
everywhere except at the water pump.
Which leads to a brief aside about the most vulnerable
aluminum component in many engines, the water pump. Water pumps and
their housings are susceptible to corrosion caused by
erosion-corrosion and cavitation. I quote from F. Marks and W. Jetten
("Engine Coolant Testing, 2nd Symposium"):
"Cavitation is the process whereby pressure
fluctuations cause the formation and subsequent collapsing of vapor
cavities, which exert high mechanical forces on metal surfaces.
Erosion-corrosion is the process whereby a flowing fluid surface
destroys the protective film giving corrosion free play. The results
of both processes are very similar, namely severe localized damage.
Cavitation and erosion-corrosion are difficult to separate under test
conditions."
The rate of cavitation is affected by a number of factors.
Increasing the fluid density or fluid boiling point tends to increase
cavitation while increasing viscosity, compressibility or dissolved
gases tends to reduce cavitation. Some of these properties are
effected by coolant additives and the effect on cavitation is one of
the characteristics of a coolant package that should be considered.
There is one final problem with aluminum. Some aluminum
salts, most notably aluminum phosphate, are not highly soluble in water.
Depending on the overall coolant hardness, which is the measure of the
total concentration of minerals in the coolant, aluminum salts will
precipitate out of solution in the cooler parts of the coolant system.
- The last important metal alloy in the typical coolant system is
solder. Solder, like aluminum, is highly susceptible to corrosion. There
are two common solder alloys. Low-lead solder is made of about 70% Lead
(Pb) and 30% Tin (Sn). High-lead solder is 97% Pb, 2.5% Sn and .5%
silver (Ag). As a practical matter, even though it has a decent
electrode potential, lead is probably the least corrosion resistant
metal in the automobile. This is because lead does not form the stable
protective oxide film that aluminum does. Since lead salts are the
primary corrosion by-products of solder, it follows that high-lead
solder corrodes at a faster rate than the low-lead solder. Unfortunately
high-lead solder is distinctly cheaper than low-lead solder and
prevalent in most modern, post-1960, automobiles.
Usually the corroded solder forms an
insoluble scale at the corrosion site. In fact, a solder joint will
often oxidize completely, but remain plugged by the corrosion products.
Unfortunately, salts are not well known for there mechanical properties
so failure can occur when the salt plug is cracked by vibration.
The primary failure of radiators
occurs through the corrosion of the solder joints between the radiator
tubes and the inlet or outlet manifolds. Depending on the construction
technique, this can be a horrendous and messy problem. Some radiators,
called "soft-cored", have cross tubes that are completely
solder lined and which can solidly pack with scale. It is the removal of
this scale that we call "rodding out" a radiator. A more
sophisticated mechanic can remove this scale by dipping the radiator in
a caustic solution.
As a final note on metals, clad aluminum has been used to control
corrosion and prevent metal pitting and perforation in radiators. An alloy
of 99% Al/ 1% Zinc (Zn) is coated on an aluminum surface. In this
composite structure, corrosion will proceed preferentially along the alloy
surface owing to the lower electrode potential of the Al/Zn composite. If
the cladding is applied properly, it can be quite effective at preventing
pitting and perforation. If not, the cladding can flake off the surface
and create new particulate headaches. An underlying assumption of this
strategy is that no radiator lives forever. It only lives a bit longer
than the cladding on its surface.
"Add Eye of Newt and Tongue of Bat" or
-Coolants-
As reconstituted in an engine, the major component of coolant is, of
course, water. Cheap, non-toxic, inflammable and a good heat transfer
fluid it will probably remain the primary component in cooling systems for
a long time.
The next major component is the base of the concentrated coolant, as
purchased at the store. There are three different bases that commonly are
used. Ethylene glycol (EG) is the most common base. Less common is
propylene glycol (PG), which has been used for years in Switzerland owing
to poison laws and is a recent entry in the U.S. market. Methanol is a
third alternative that has been available in Great Britain, mostly for
historical reasons.
The function of the coolant base is to extend the liquid range of the
coolant. In a 50% mixture, the glycols will lower the freezing point to
about -45C and raise the boiling point to about 115C. Another function of
the base is to raise the viscosity of the coolant mixture. Higher
viscosity mixtures will reduce cavitation at the water pump. PG and EG
will both raise the coolant viscosity, methanol will not.
Next, a variety of different chemicals are added to coolants to inhibit
corrosion. Cleverly called inhibitors, the function of these additives may
be to form a stable, protective film on the metal surface or to alter the
solution properties of the coolant. Quite frankly, the precise mechanism
of protection of some additives is not known - at least not by anyone who
is willing to publish their results. Additionally, the additives in most
commercial coolants are usually proprietary. Fortunately for this article,
a few brave souls are willing to publish specific information about named
inhibitors.
Common corrosion inhibitors include: sodium phosphate, sodium nitrate,
sodium tolytriazole, sodium molybdate, sodium borate, sodium benzoate and
sodium silicate. Notice that these are all sodium salts. Actually, only
the right hand group of these salts is the inhibitor, i.e., benzoate or
silicate. These salts dissociates in water, that is, they separate into
sodium, with a positive charge, and the inhibitor, with a negative charge.
The sodium salts are used because of the high solubility of sodium; you
will never ever see sodium deposits in your engine. About the only place
you can find sodium metal, outside the laboratory, is inside some high
performance valves and heat transfer systems.
Different inhibitors protect different metals. From Vukasovich and
Sullivan (also "Engine Coolant Testing, 2nd Symposium"):
"The data show aluminum heat-transfer corrosion was best
inhibited by silicate and most poorly by phosphate and borate. ... copper
was best inhibited by molybdate and most poorly by benzoate; high-lead
solder best by molybdate and phosphate and most poorly by nitrate,
silicate and benzoate; low-lead solder best by tolytriazole and molybdate
and most poorly by nitrate and silicate; mild steel best by molybdate,
phosphate and nitrite and most poorly by tolytriazole and benzoate; gray
cast iron best by nitrate and most poorly by benzoate, tolyriazole, and
borate; and cast aluminum best by silicate and most poorly by phosphate
and molybdate." [Yes, there are two slightly different sentences on
aluminum.]
Reviewing the most common inhibitors we find:
- Phosphate is the most ubiquitous and most controversial inhibitor. It
is a well known inhibitor of ferrous metal corrosion, hence trisodium
phosphate is used to clean of sheet metal. American car manufacturers
have specified phosphate in coolants because it is highly effective at
preventing cavitation. Europeans specify non-phosphate coolants because
phosphates have a propensity to precipitate in hard water. Also,
phosphates have a negative effect on the corrosion rate of aluminum.
This beneficial effects peak at concentrations of about 3 g/l and
decreases at both lower and higher concentrations. Typical
concentrations in coolants range from 0 to 8 g/l.
- Nitrate is included in virtually all formulations because of its
efficacy in preventing aluminum radiator pitting, with presumably no
negative side effects for other metals. A typical concentration is 2
g/l. - Tolytriazole is similarly included in virtually all formulations
owing to its effectiveness in preventing cupreous metal corrosion. A
typical concentration is 1 g/l.
- Molybdate is a broadly beneficial additive. It prevents corrosion in
many metals and acts synergistically with phosphates and silicates to
prevent corrosion in others. Molybdate also seems to prevent cavitation
damage; it is usually selected to perform this function in non-phosphate
coolants. Typical molybdate concentrations are 2 to 3 g/l.
- Borate is the most commonly used buffer for coolant systems. Off the
shelf, American coolants tend to have a pH of 10 or higher, while
European coolants tend to have a pH of 7 to 8.5. In service, the pH of
American coolants often drops to 8. Unfortunately, borate tends to have
a direct and negative effect on aluminum corrosion. In spite of this,
the importance of keeping coolants well buffered is great enough to keep
borate in coolant formulations. A typical concentration is 4 g/l.
- Benzoate (and Nitrite, which is not otherwise mentioned here) are
part of the British Standards Institute's [BSI] Corrosion Inhibited
Ethanediol Anti-freeze formulation. Benzoate is more common in European
coolants than American coolants and is described as a ferrous metals
corrosion inhibitor. Vukasovich and Sullivan found it ineffective in
protecting cast iron when present in concentrations less than 5% (an
unreasonably high concentration). On the other hand, it does seem to
offer protection to mild steel and high-lead solder at lower
concentrations. A typical concentration is 5 g/l.
- Finally there are silicates, which appear to be ne plus ultra in
protection for aluminum. This is wonderful, but life could never be so
simple for Triumph owners. The problem is that silicates are not
indefinitely stable in solution. While other additives can be used to
stabilize silicates somewhat, I believe that the primary limit to the
lifespan of coolants is presence of an adequate silicate concentration.
2 g/l is an effective concentration of silicate.
Bringing all of these inhibitors together, a combination of benzoate,
molybdate, borate, nitrate, tolytriazole and silicate is a good additive
package that doesn't use phosphates. The non-silicate part of the package
is fairly effective in preventing aluminum corrosion, and makes a good
back-up system in for an aluminum block engine, should the silicates
become depleted. Other additives appear in coolants as well. These agents
are typically used to stabilize the inhibitors or the metal salts which
are corrosion by-products. This type of additive is called a sequestrants.
Another required additive is the colorant.
"Answers, We want answers!" or
-Common Questions-
I have tried to imagine a few common questions that you might ask about
coolants if we were trapped in a British pub and your car was leaking
coolant just outside.
- How long does coolant last?
- I have read bench test results that evaluate stabilized,
phosphate-containing coolants in which silicate concentration was stable
for more than 700 hours. Aluminum corrosion in these tests was virtually
negligible. 15,000 miles per year is about 500 to 700 hours, so you can
definitely trust your coolant, phosphate containing or not, for about
one year of average use. The coolant will probably last even longer than
that, but I have not seen test results that indicate exactly how long
silicates remained stable in this coolant. Given that in-service time is
much harder on the system then storage time, coolant in a low use car
would probably last for nearly 700 hours of engine use (accounting for
cool down time), regardless of the total elapsed time. Keep in mind,
however, that coolant has a definite lifespan even in storage. It would
be wise to replace the coolant in an aluminum engined car at least every
2 or 3 years, no matter how little used the automobile is.
- How can coolant go bad?
- The primary failure of coolant is depletion of some inhibitor. For an
aluminum block automobile this is the silicate. Another failure is
saturation with some metal salt, such as aluminum phosphate, which then
precipitates at some inconvenient location in your engine.
- Should I use tap water or distilled water?
- I recommend distilled water. If you have exceptionally soft water it
would be acceptable, as well. Basically, the engine metals are going to
corrode to some extent no matter what water you use, and hard water will
encourage the resulting metal salts to precipitate.
- How often should I change my coolant?
- I recommend that you flush and refill annually with 50% coolant -
water mixture. I expect that if you do this you will never experience
any cooling system corrosion problems in your car. In storage a good
coolant will probably last for 3-4 years in a TR7, which has an iron
block and aluminum head, less in an aluminum block car, like the TR8,
and probably longer in an all iron engine.
- What coolant should I use?
- After my research, I will suggest two possible choices. If you are
willing to religiously flush and change your coolant annually, any
aluminum compatible coolant will do. I have a strong suspicion that "aluminum
compatible" are the code words for "contains silicates".
As long as a decent silicate concentration is maintained, the presence
of phosphate is unimportant. The bench test mentioned above showed that
aluminum corrosion was extemely low in the presence of phosphate, as
long as the silicates were not depleted. By way of comparison, in
control tests with unstabilized silicates the aluminum corrosion rapidly
accelerated once the silicate concentration dropped. If you don't think
you are up to annual changes, I would recommend a phosphate-free,
aluminum compatible coolant. If you use your car with any frequency, you
really should never go more than 2 years without changing the coolant.
- Will a sacrificial anode help?
- Probably. Remember that the two susceptible metals are lead (in the
solder) and aluminum. I have read of two different sacrificial anodes,
zinc and magnesium. It isn't clear to me whether zinc, lead or aluminum
will corrode preferentially. Based strictly on electrode potential, zinc
is more reactive than lead but less reactive than aluminum, while
magnesium is more reactive than all of these. This leads me to conclude
that the zinc anode will reduce solder corrosion in the radiator but may
not help the aluminum block or cylinder head much, while the magnesium
anode should be able to protect all the metals. But since that aluminum
can be well protected by inhibitors and since lead salts are more of a
scale problem than most others, I believe that a sacrificial anode of
either metal should be beneficial.
- Can I use propylene glycol?
- I think that this is a matter of personal preference. PG is still
more expensive than EG, but it is definitely less toxic or
environmentally damaging. The performance of inhibited PG coolants is
comparable, indeed better, than EG in most cases. The only negative
effect I know of is that inhibited PG is less effective at preventing
cavitation pitting in steel than inhibited EG.
- Should I use water wetters (i.e., the Redline stuff)?
- I haven't looked at the heat-transfer aspect of coolants. For now,
you will have to look elsewhere for this information. I doubt think it
effects corrosion inhibition, but it might affect cavitation.
- Why is coolant green?
- Because the SAE Handbook says it's supposed to be dyed green or
blue-green. By using standard colors we can tell what fluid our Triumphs
are currently leaking by simply examining the stains on the ground.
- What about corrosion on the outside of the radiator?
- Although not related to the coolant, I thought I might mention that
brass-copper radiators tend to lose about 5% of their heat transfer
capacity over their first couple of years. Apparently this is caused by
corrosion at the joint between the tubes and fins in the radiator.
Painting the radiators helps prevent this corrosion. Using matte black
paint may also enhance heat transfer rates. Of course, putting on
excessive paint will insulate the radiator and lower its cooling
efficiency.
"What fool wrote this?"
or -Credits-
Believing that the more we understand about why our cars are the way
they are the better we can enjoy our hobby, I submit this to the reader.
The information herein is as accurate as possible and consistent with my
experience and training (B.S., Ph.D.) in chemical engineering. Comments
and corrections are always welcome. Reproduction in part or whole is
permitted, on the condition that these credits are maintained.
Gregory T. Fieldson
gregory.fieldson@fieldson.com
P.O. Box 855
Palo Alto, California 94302-0855
United States of America
last revised (minor) 15 May 1998
back to the garage